Description
Ideal of small Off Grid Applications, Camping, Sheds, RVs
USA Stock and Shipping & Pro Tech Support!
Buyer beware:
– there are currently Chinese copies of this product using inferior electronics and software
– If you buy from outside the US, there may be a new 25% import duty slapped onto your “bargain” buy, if you need support, don’t get your hopes up
An extremely popular unit! ·
Here is a UNSPONSORED Youtube review by William Prowse :
https://youtu.be/7reC9QlPHlA
An extremely popular unit! ·
Compatible with many Battery Technologies (Lead Acid, Flooded, AGM, Lithium, LiFePO4, can all be configured by using the “manual” battery setting)
93% Efficient
Dual Battery Charge mode, (Solar and Utility/ Generator)
1000 VA / 1000W Inverter ·
12V DC to 120V AC ·
40A MPPT (maximum power point tracking) · – can be overpaneled up to 800W (Charging watts is controlled by the battery current setting)
120V Genset /Generator or Utility input to charge the 12 V battery at 20A
Ideal for RV’s , Cabins and homes with 12V battery power, can start your generator automatically / or j just switch over to utility power if battery runs low during poor daylight / night time. (and recharge the battery at the same time)
Perfect for keeping your furnace/ electrical refrigerator running through the night without having to run the generator to keep the battery charged.
kerry brent spear –
Very helpful I am thinking about getting one of these. THANKS
Chris Joplin (verified owner) –
It is straight forward to mount and wire. There is a lot to understand to program it.
Crazy Wayne (verified owner) –
After having food spoilage for the fifth time due my New Renogy DCC50S unit giving the light of death.
And wanting a little more inverter than the 200 w that I had to run my laptop, I did some research.
So I bought one of these little thousand watt All in One units.
The unit appears to be working flawlessly for 2 months now.
Powering it with three Rich 12volt 200 watt solar panels.
Feeding two 12 volt 206AH SOK batteries.
I have a small gold star 5000 BTU air conditioner on the back of my camper.
The AC is rated at 800 watts and to my subtle total surprise this unit was able to start the air conditioner and run it no issues other than a one second beep flashing a code 7.
So I plugged in my big clunky laptop that pulls about 170 Watts.
And the AC was still able to start and run with no issue.
NOTE, make sure that you use number four real copper battery cables to this unit so it can pull the surge without voltage drop to the unit.
After I installed the 4 gauge leads and only started the air conditioner sometimes it doesn’t even beep now when the AC kicks on.
I can run the air conditioner for 10 hours just off the batteries.
I can usually just run the AC for about 3 or 4 hours a day and still be at full charge by about 10:00 a.m. every morning.
And under most cloudy skies I’m still pulling close to 20% of the rated max power off my panels.
And the peak wattage it shows coming in has hit as high as 512 Watts off the panels.
My AC when running depending on ambient temperature consumes between 480 and 700 Watts.
My only regret is I didn’t discover this MPP 1012LV unit before I purchased that Renogy DC505 nightmare….
Dealing with Ian and his fast shipping and response to emails and text messaging.
I was so pleased with the service and shipping speed.
That I just this morning ordered a MPP PIP-LV2424 24 volt 2400 w unit.
Chris Joplin (verified owner) –
Product and service are excellent. The manual was very challenging for me to use.
Jerry Landrum (verified owner) –
I mounted this LV1012 on a milk crate with 2 32 ah batteries below, with quick disconnect for 2 250w panels in series.
Very lightweight and portable. The same instruction booklet applies to a range of model sizes from 1-5kw, making this a good starter system.
Many people with power out from hurrican right now. I just wish all those folks had one of these.
Wendy Gerrish (verified owner) –
Finally got the 1012 mounted to a hardboard on plywood secured to cart/dolly with a lock box big enough for 4 amperetime 12vdc 100Ahrs batts; only put one 180watt pv panel out (high winds forecast and not sure how its all going to be configure yet)…it worked!
Got all 4 charged up, only 2 in // and just finished charging #4 when the power went out- gale force winds, oak trees flying everywhere, all forecast days ahead. (The solar panel was tied down with hay bale string). So I only powered my base station phone (11watts), only later after the weather had passed did I plug in the freezer and found that it only took 115watts, on one battery the 1012 performed great. The fan noise for low load was not noticeable. This is my first project. I did use 4 gauge for the batt to the 3 in 1 DC connections but I am making 1 0 connectors for the parallel batteries…and about taking 20 minutes to set up..took me about a week. It will be easy to modify, or add to, or move to other locations. Easy peasy. Oh it took me ~1 week, and look it all works!
CB (verified owner) –
I installed the 1012LV-MS in my camp trailer renovation project. I wanted to be able to be off grid so needed an inverter to occasionally power a small microwave and my wife’s blow dryer (her single request). I planned for 200aH battery, a single 200W PV panel, and shore power at home or when electrical hookups are available. The all-in-one was a perfect choice. I commissioned it this past weekend and did a full checkout. Seems to be working flawlessly. The one downside to the unit is the lack of a remote inverter on/off switch. I installed the unit in a small cabinet that is normally closed and so the switch on the bottom of the unit was inconvenient. I made a simple modification to allow use of a remote SPST switch that I located with my other electrical controls (master DC on/off, pump, furnace controls, and battery monitor).
Wendy Gerrish (verified owner) –
This was my first solar power solution/try out for utility ‘safety power shutoffs’. My situation: In 2020 we had a power shut off for > 3 days. (That meant no telephone or internet or cell phone..so what’s safe about that?). Some rural communities were out for over a week and many people use well pumps for their water supply.
This 1012 all in one is simple to use and small and light.Its only load, due to convenience is my freezer (110watts), garage lites and telephone, and it’s 1-4p 100Ahr lifepo- various batteries. (For the house internet comm connection I initially got a small sogen). The auto transfer works without a glitch, cooling fans, beeps for status changes. The beeps are infrequent and not annoying.
This LV2012 is the greatest little device. I’ve found it ideal for hands on learning~ wire crimping; fuse types and component placement; mixing and matching variations; grounding concerns,equipment housing solutions for mobile and off grid applications, and all going on while little LV2012 maintains it’s small but essential loads.
I did get a gas generator for large the A/C summer-load which is one of the next off grid solar solutions to tackle for the house-cabin, and trailer and 4×4 camper, how to secure batteries, how to pound in grounding rods into jurassic period ancient metamorphotised sea bed ; the fun things.
Timothy Pfeiffer –
I’ve installed about 25+ units.
This is a good basic system for low power, low demands, here are some shortcomings.
The AC battery recharge rate is only 20A, which is 250W, most 200Ah 13.6v lithium batteries can take a charge of 200A, meaning this is significantly slower than it could be.
The 40A mppt solar controller is perfect for 500W of panels and if you add 1000W of panels, the system can run at max power all day long without an issue, provided you don’t let the voltage go above max, and even if you do, the safety system is robust.
My larger systems (20kwh & 6kw) use this inverter for the backup power after the primary battery runs down to zero.
This takes the AC output of the primary system and keeps the 12V batteries charged, then bypasses the AC power to essential equipment, such as refrigeration and lights.
I’ve connected the MPPT to my ebike 36V battery (instead of solar panels) and used those batteries to provide extra power to the 12v when needed.
It is essential that the 12V starter battery of my Truck is always full as the 12v batteries run mergency lights & cameras 24/7 and ambulances are designed to always be plugged in or running, not kept in a storage facility unpowered.
Solar-> MPPT -> 50V_Battery -> Primary_Inverter -> AC_power -> 12V_inverter -> Starter_Battery -> Truck
The goal is to reverse this process to recharge the primary battery
Alternator -> Starter_Battery -> 12V_Inverter -> AC_Power -> Primary_Inverter -> 50V Battery
The first step is to use a relay to disconnect the AC_input_12V_inverter to keep it from pulling power from the 50V battery. The next step will use a relay to connect the AC_output_12V_inverter to the AC_Input_primary_inverter, so it can charge the 50v battery.
The power switch on the bottom of the unit will be controlled by relays, so it can be operated by the driver with a push button, but only when safe.
The 1st relay confirms there is no 115vac going into AC_input_12v_inverter as this connection will power to flow in a loop, the 2nd relay confirms there is no 115vac going into AC_input_primary_inverter as this would indicate the system is plugged in to shore power and doesn’t need alternator power, the 3rd relay is connected to the truck_accessory that is active only when the engine is running, the 4th relay is connected to time relay that will turn the inverter off automatically after 4 hours after the push button is pressed by the driver.
The goal of these relays is to keep the system easy to operate and prevent errors that can cause issues. The driver just has to push the button once and if safe, the system will turn on, and automatically turn off, the driver does not have to remember to flip any switches or check other conditions.
This design is borrowed from the automotive industry, where I use relays & sensors to confirm things are safe, for example turning the key to start your car while it is already driving on the highway could be disasterious, but relays prevent this from happening.
The alternator power is NOT FREE, it cost me about $100 in diesel fuel, just idling for 8 hours a day, using this to power a small camper for a week. This system is designed to be used occasionally as an hour of engine idle time will provide me with 24 hours of refrigerator power, which is faster & more convienant than any other way to obtain power.
Roger (verified owner) –
Got this unit a few months ago and Ian treated me like my brother from another mother 😎
He will call or text you back every time and answer any questions you have, about the mpp all in one. Not blowing smoke here folk’s, he is the best customer service guy on the planet and will care for you😎
Electronics and shipping are like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get, but Ian with watts 247 is the guy you need when something goes awry 👍
Christopher Stout (verified owner) –
Only able to charge battery at ~9 amps from utility.
01 UTI
02 60
03 UPS
04 SDS
05 USE
06 DEFAULT
07 DEFAULT
08 120V
09 60 HZ
11 20
12 12V
13 13.5
16 CU
23 BYD
25 FDS
26 14.4
FLU 13.6
29 11.7
Battery Evo 120ah lifepo4 12v
Specifications:
Nominal Voltage: 12V
Voltage Range: 10V – 14V
Charge controller User Program setting: Bulk: 14V Float: 13.75V
Nominal Capacity: 1.5 kWh (120Ah)
Configuration: 4S-6P
BMS: 175A Peak 350A
Energy Nominal: 1.5 kWh
Chemistry: LiFePO4 (LFP)
Cell Type: 20Ah Nano phosphate Cells
Cell Count: 24
Fuse: 300A Fuse ANL
ian.roux –
Chris, please try setting 16 to SNU
Should be able to get to 20A at 12V charging (roughly 200 to 300W depending on battery voltage – 20A at 14V =280W )